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What price range can I expect?
What can I customize on a cue?
How can I personalize my cue?
I know the shaft is very important. How do you make your shafts?
I saw an oval ring pattern on some of the cues. How is that created?
Do you make cues out of anything but wood?
I like to play on large tables, and sometimes I have trouble reaching a long shot. Do you have a solution?
What design elements do you use when creating a cue?
What joints do you put on the cues? Which is your favorite?
I am ready to buy a cue. What's next?
What price range can I expect?
- Cue prices start at $500. The average price of a Miltonio Custom Cue with one shaft is between $650 and $850. The average cost of a Miltonio cue with two shafts, joint protectors (example) and a 10" extension (examples 1 2), varies between $850 and $1,600. More complex design elements, rare woods and other options (example) will cost more. All prices include shipping within the U.S.A.
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What can I customize on a cue?
- Since every cue I make is a one-of-a-kind original, many aspects of the cue can be made to fit your unique taste and style. Weight, length, wood selection (example), colors, design details (example), and other features can be made to order.
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How can I personalize my cue?
- Other special elements might include birthstones or other gems (example) available for the player's secret benefit. Non-pool players might wonder what a gem is doing hidden away, out of sight, on a joint screw. But many pool players know the advantages of courting Lady Luck.
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I know the shaft is very important. How do you make your shafts?
- I carefully select kiln-dried, straight grain, "Hard Rock" sugar maple for my shafts. I look for slow growth, tight grain wood when possible. I buy it in boards, rip it into 1-inch squares, 31" long, then date it and hang it up. Every three months I turn it down a little on the lathe. Only after a year's time do I make the last cut and sanding to fit it to a butt. I want the shaft wood to do whatever warping it's going to do before the finish cut. If properly treated, after it's a finished cue, it should never warp again.
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I saw an oval ring pattern on some of the cues. How is that created?
- Sometimes different sections of a cue are separated by what I like to call "Saturn rings" (example). These are one or more layers of contrasting wood interleafed with veneer at an angle. The resulting colorful oval rings are very rare design elements.
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Do you make cues out of anything but wood?
- Yes, but rarely. I like some plastics but I prefer to use wood whenever possible. Some of my most beautiful cues are made completely of wood, including the butt caps and joint collars. These cues hit just as well, if not better, than cues made from a combination of wood and various other materials.
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I like to play on large tables, and sometimes I have trouble reaching a long shot. Do you have a solution?
- Yes! I can make a removable rubber bumper for the butt of the cue. Simply unscrew it, temporarily, and replace it with a 10" extension (examples 1 2) for that once-in-a-while shot that is hard to reach. The rubber bumper can easily be replaced on the cue. Both the extension (examples 1 2) and rubber bumper will fit in your pocket; ready for use when necessary.
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What design elements do you use when creating a cue?
- Some of my favorite design elements are super points, butterfly points and Saturn rings (example). Also, colored veneers can accentuate the interface between contrasting woods. I love to juxtapose woods with different colors (example), textures and grain patterns.
Various materials can be used to make joint rings (example) including nickel-silver, brass and plastics of various colors. I have used ivory but, frankly, I prefer to see it on the animal. Finally, we can discuss whatever design ideas you might have.
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What joint pins do you use?
- My favorite size is 3/8" X 10 pitch because it is simple, strong and doesn't require any female brass inserts. The threaded wood undergoes a special chemical hardening treatment. I can also use 5/16" X 18 pitch or 5/16" X 14 pitch joint pins if you prefer.
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OK. I’m ready to buy a cue. Now what?
- First, give me a call so we can discuss details. I will need to know what you are looking for, what your budget is, and any special requests you may have. I start work on an order as soon as I receive at least half the price of the cue. The balance can be paid just before delivery or by C.O.D., whichever you prefer. I can E-mail you a photo of your finished cue. The cue is guaranteed to be in perfect condition on arrival. If, for any reason, you are not satisfied I will do whatever is necessary to make it right. If, after using the cue for 30 days, you're still not happy, I will buy it back, assuming of course that it has not been abused.
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